How to install/remove EJ20G black slanty intercooler

[jdmvip]

This applies to the EJ20G black slanty ICs (not STi as it should be much simpler if my EJ20G IC has stock piping which appears to mainly be silicone).

When I removed my slanty a long time ago it was very hard to get the turbo side off. I used so much force that I thought I may break it and wondered how Subaru did it when they did my clutch (there was no damage to the edges). I used a screwdriver and chewed up the outside edge of the plastic pipe that connects to the turbo, it seemed impossible.

Today I decided to reinstall my black slanty because since I installed the STi IC I'm sure it caused an airleak (I confirmed an area around the STi ICs silicone that connects to the turbo has a slice/slit in it so maybe that was it) but in either case the piping is leaking for sure and my black slanty wasn't.

What should have been a 5 minute job took a few hours I'm embarrassed to admit
All the brute force and swearing in the world wouldn't help get the turbo side connected, it seemed like it was bent out of shape. Eventually I decided to try heating it over the stove for a few minutes (until the plastic began to smell and burn my hands but wasn't melting). I ran back outside in the cold and shoved it on within seconds. And the funny thing is that it's practically stuck onto the turbo now (just like it was before).

So the moral of the story is that IMHO you really need a heat gun to remove and reinstall the black slanty unless the engine is quite hot or it's very hot in general (but even then it may be tough). I hope this saves some others some time/frustration.

As an alternative I guess you could probably use a hair dryer to remove the IC instead of a heatgun but I'm personally going to invest in a heatgun because they're useful for brittle plastic/hoses in engine bays (just be careful not to actually melt anything!).

[reet]

Yup, hit the foldey bits with some heat or be prepared for some serious brute force to get 'er in. Heat gun is probably a good idea, but to be careful as you can apply too much heat.

I picked up a cheap heat gun at Princess Auto for $40, and a pile of heatshrink. Heatshrink is always good to have if you do any wiring.

[FtGF]

I didn't personally do mine I had a shop do it. They even though it was bitch to do.

[JDB]

I've had mine off 8-10 times since i've put my new engine in and I can't say i've found it bad at all. A large screw driver or pry bar has popped it off and on easily every time. A little brake cleaner helps it slide on as well and evaporates quickly after the fact. I used to avoid it thinking it was a massive job but turns out its not that bad IMO.

[jdmvip]

That's interesting JDB but then again you seem to be very mechanically able. I will say that if the car is hot, the hose pops off easily though and I didn't use any Brake Cleaner to try getting it back on (never thought of it).

In my case since I mangled part of the hose on the outside edges and it may be why it's so hard to get back on (if I did my first time over, I would have had the car hot because it pops off easily).

Actually don't ask how I know that if you are missing the hose clamp that the IC to turbo pipe can blow off and cause you to pull over to the side and madly shove it back on and drive home without boosting much

[GC8REX]

Wanna know the secret hint to making any hose go onto any bung easily?

Dish soap.

NEVER had a problem installing/reinstalling my intercooler or any other tricky hose when I smeared a generous helping of common dish soap around the hose and the bung. Its neutral enough not to hurt anything if some gets inside the hose, and easy to come by.

I always have a bottle of it in the shop, I've seen people struggle with a hose for hours and then get it on instantly with a bit of soap.

[Braden]

KY Jelly or dish soap.

[GC8REX]

Originally Posted by Braden

KY Jelly or dish soap.

Lol great minds think alike? See previous post

[Braden]

wizardry...

[JDB]

Originally Posted by jdmvip

In my case since I mangled part of the hose on the outside edges and it may be why it's so hard to get back on (if I did my first time over, I would have had the car hot because it pops off easily).

The first time I did this I let someone else take the lead and we had thought we'd put a FMIC on anyway. We broke the BOV mount off in the process. When I put the motor in I had no money so I had to fix the mount. So cut it all off drilled it out a bit and used a copper pipe elbow. Worked out perfect! May have posted this somewhere else but here's a picture anyway.


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