Where to get 13B engine work?
I have heard that the 13B engines, once they go, are costly to bring back. Also that it can be hard finding people to work on the rotary engines. How do rotary gurus cope with it?
I found this site located in Florida that specialize in 13B engines:
http://www.dragonms.com/index.html
Okay, I am not an expert on rotary by any means but I hear that they are pretty simple to rebuild. There are very few moving parts and it is a matter of opening, replacing, and closing.
In most cities there is the one or two guys who know rotarys well. Go to an auto parts store and ask them. They get a good Idea of who knows what and they know who are arrogant bastards.
Just don't go into a parts store and seem cheap or you won't get a good recommendation. The shops don't want cheapskates referred to them and the parts guys know that.
If your in Edmonton, the only guy you will want to see with a rotary will be Conroy Ganson out in Adrossan. He's the guy around here for these models and knows his stuff.
If you need his contact info, PM me. Also I won't say it publicly, but I can tell you who to avoid as well.
in the Fraser Valley Force Fed is the place to go..
Is that one of the guys that runs 4cruzin? Don't they have an auto salvage yard of RHDs?Originally Posted by William
That's the guy yup, but I don't think he has a JDM junk yard. Just alot of rotary parts around.
your in sask hmmm.
Well in Calgary there is Rx7 specialties, they will do anything from giant port to 3 rotor mods
On another note, why not just buy a rx7 with a rebuilt engine ?
I saw on on tradecarview for 3.2k FOB and if your into high modded cars I can give you a site where they sell high powered cars with a rebuild right before the mod is done
Another thread I'm bringing back from the dead...
A rotary engine can be very far from being a cheap rebuild. The rebuild kit alone (seals and gaskets) for the 13b REW can be anywhere from 1200-2000+ depending on where it's sourced from. so without any sort of labour you can be easily into mid 2k range for a completely stock rebuild. Thats not including taking the engine out, unassembling, reassembling and installing.
Other factors to consider are whats the cause for the rebuild. If you broke an apex seal, there is a good chance that it could have scraped a housing (which would need replacing) and it also could have shot out your turbo on the way out, which in turn means needing that replaced. If your running a large single like myself, thats easily 1500+ right there to replace the turbo. From the factory the irons are not hardened (or at least they are not hardened enough) this can cause some serious wear between the rotor and the iron. Thats some serious money to replace irons, housing and rotors. Bearings are a good thing to replace as well when rebuilding. These are only a couple hundred bucks, but in the end it all adds up.
If your like me, there is no way something is going to be rebuilt back to stock form. So things like emissions removal should be done, as all that does is creates more unwanted heat in the engine bay. Block off plates are needed when this goes down..so theres another couple hundred. Porting, depending on how aggressive can be in the hundreds to the thousands.
An FD at the shop where I had my car built had a rebuild, but needed pretty much all new parts. There was no porting done, but emissions stuff was removed. The bill for the engine was over 6000. Far from cheap for sure.
Buying an rx7 with a rebuilt engine (in my opinion) is a very bad idea as well. There are so many shady shops out there these days, and I believe a rebuild should be handled by a rotary specialist. You are never certain what kind of parts were used, unless you were there, or at least oversee things every step of the way.
M
'07 Porsche 997 TT
'05 Honda S2000 GPW AP2
Excellent post.
I guess it's a reality check for people who think that only one moving part = a cheap rebuild.
What is included in a $2000 rebuild kit? Do you get a new rotor or just the apex seals?
Pardon me for not knowing the rotary so well but I would assume not many other people on here know either. You have bought yourself a crown and the burden of informing all us rotary noobs. I have always wanted to know more.
Thanks for the update.
Here's a link to the Atkins "master" rebuild kit for the 93-95 FD (obviously the Jspec 92 falls under this category as well)
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/pr...7&cat=0&page=1
This rebuild kit is at the lower end of the scale for quality (my opinion of course) This one is 1200US not including shipping. It does not include rotors, but it's all the gaskets and seals needed. However the Apex seals that get seated in each vertex of each rotor I find are extremely crappy quality through atkins. When I first popped my engine with the Atkins seals there was signs of the seals actually flexing and cracking before the engine popped. I will never be using them again.
If rebuilding, I'd use the apex seals right from mazda that are chryogenically treated. They offer a hell of a lot more strength over stock ones. when it comes to replacing the rotors and housings, most the time it's best to bite the bullet and just pay the price through Mazda to get the parts..unless you can find brand new ones for less on Rx7club.com.
A thing to look into as well when getting a rebuild on a rotary, is to remove the factory oil injection system. This is one of the things that are most common to fail on the engine, and will ruin your engine extremely fast if it does. Do the injection manually is extremely easy and gives you a piece of mind knowing it was done right. Using a "2 cycle Injector Oil" (Amzoil is what I use) going with the measurement of 100-1 of Gas to oil is the way to go. So if your putting in 50L of gas, you put in 500ml of the injector oil right in the gas filler neck before you fill your tank. Its a bit pricey at 14-15per litre of oil, but you pay to play when it comes to these cars.
M
'07 Porsche 997 TT
'05 Honda S2000 GPW AP2
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