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Thread: Warning for JDM Subaru Impreza WRX owners

  1. #21

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    Thanks for reporting that info red top kdw.
    What is an EJ20Kdw though?

    I know EJ20K but is that the engine type on your chassis plate?

  2. #22

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    hi jdmvip,
    yep that's the number on the plate, cant remember wat the d w means though, i have just changed the rear brakes discs and pads ,i know i want new pads on front , an abs light has come on suddenly any reason for this? can it be read by laptop , its a version 3 wrx sti 1997 import. i am not sure if there is a plug in behind the instrument panel.ill try and get some pics done when weather changes a bit as i am in the UK.

  3. #23

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    Congrats on your V3, I hope you can share a lot of info about EJ20K and your V3 here. We do have other members from the UK and Ireland on this forum.

    I'm not sure about the ABS light, I would just check the obvious things like brake fluid but I have no idea, sorry

  4. #24

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    I know from racing motocross alot of people thought using Sunoco 94 would be a good idea, but apparently all the additives and stuff in it are not good for your motor-- seals and such. Maybe applies to cars as well?

  5. #25

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    I would avoid any gases with additives or blends that did not exist when your car was built, including ethanol.

    I don't have any proof of this, I don't think anyone does, but it makes sense for the reasons you say. Older cars were not designed to be used with these other additives and who knows what harm they could have (potentially).

    I guess there's no way to know without doing some experimenting and ripping apart engines though.

  6. #26

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    The good thing about our motors stock engine management is that it will pull timing automatically once knock is detected. The bad thing, is that hinders performance.
    A work around the low octane would be implementing some sort of methanol injection system ala AEM (this will probably cost effective in the long run, as 94+ octane can cost 30% more than regular pump gas)
    Or
    installation of 1 step colder plugs, however the colder plugs will foul easier in low/off-boost conditions and you may need to replace them every 6-9 months depending on your situation and can cost 50 bucks a set. (this is what I did until I could access 94+ petrol)

    Watch out for high octane LEADED as it will foul your sensors. Leaded gasoline was once used to sealant/lubricant for parts in the valve train.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by spacekid View Post
    The good thing about our motors stock engine management is that it will pull timing automatically once knock is detected. The bad thing, is that hinders performance.


    Watch out for high octane LEADED as it will foul your sensors. Leaded gasoline was once used to sealant/lubricant for parts in the valve train.
    I don't know about pulling the timing - I get ping and knock all the time on 94 chevron in hot weather. Must work to some extent but not always.

    And where can you even buy leaded anymore? I think its even hard to find in mexico these days...

  8. #28

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    This an interesting concept and I think we should remember what engines we're talking about.

    But spacekid, random1 and me all have EJ20G and I've found the stock ECU will pull timing and do fuel cut if necessary.

    This is one thing that makes me question the gas here. My car hit fuel cut a few times for the first 1-2 weeks and then it seemed like the ECU compensated for something.

    I find our engines are not happy with 94 Chevron octane when the car is hot. One thing though random1, I wonder if it's our coils.

    I'm planning on getting OEM EJ20G coils soon.

    In the US I wonder if you can buy leaded, I know the USDM STi 04 ECU hated the poor quality gas they have over there.

  9. #29

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    alot of race gas blends have lead in them

  10. #30

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    I didn't know that, maybe the lead artificially raises the octane levels, kind of like melamine artificially raising nutrition levels

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