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Thread: Fuel Pump Part# EJ20G Impreza WRX

  1. #1

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    Default Fuel Pump Part# EJ20G Impreza WRX

    42021FA032 (the original one was 030 and then 031 and the current one is 032). The only problem is that this part is $290 USD.

    This is a common part to North America but I don't know for which vehicles (it doesn't show).

    A better choice is probably the Walbro GSS342-400-791 255lph fuel pump which you can easily find for ~$100 USD and is a nice upgrade especially for any future mods and increase boost etc..WRXTC used a GSS342 in his EJ20G with good results but I don't know the exact model# but the one I mentioned is said to be compatible with all WRX/STi.

  2. #2

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    Here's an install guide from a GDA WRX (it should be somewhat similar but I haven't confirmed it): http://www.scoobymods.com/mod_best_d...ro-t8426.html?

  3. #3

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    I thought I'd mention that this pump is sold under the "Carter" brand the GSS342 part# crosses right over. A local place in BC, Canada called Lordco sells them under the Carter brand.

    If your local part shop does not have Walbro, just give them the GSS342 and see if a different brand comes up.

  4. #4

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  5. #5

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    Why do some people say soldering has to be done on the Walbro unit:

    As said above if your car is a late 99 onwards it is a straight forward plug and fit,the only thing you need to do is use the original filter off your old pump as this sits more in the tank than the std walbro unit.Classics before 1999,you will need to unscrew the two wires on the pump(dont be surprised at how small the walbro is to your o/e pump) ,then cut the terminals off and solder them to the plug supplied with your walbro .Once again use the filter off your old pump as you will find the one walbro supply will face 180 degrees the wrong way reconnect back in cage making sure you use your rubber grommet,and away you go.

    One thing worth mentioning is on some of the pumps when you take your old pump out of the frame,you might see a liitle black box screwed to the frame with 2 wires going to it.This is a suppresor and ideally you want to cut the 2 wires and remove the single screw that holds this to the frame and bin it - not needed
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    http://www.subaru-impreza.org/forum/...lacment-2.html

  6. #6

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    I can answer my own question, I have no idea what people are talking about with the soldering. The Walbro GSS342 kit is a direct fit, with no soldering required at all on my GC8 (Version 93 WRX RA). It's plug and play.

    IMHO for $116 USD shipped every GC8/GDA/GDB WRX/STi owner should do this upgrade. Your car will run smoother and you can be assured that your car is always getting the fuel it needs.

    My car was getting so bad that I couldn't drive with the AC on the lowest setting. Now I can drive and shift quick with it on full blast. Before I'd have to shift slow and slip the clutch when the A/C was on. I used to get a lot of hesitation and bogging down low but that's gone now.

    Basically my car was behaving like it had a bad TPS (only it wasn't bad since I replaced it and there was no difference). It was the fuel pump all along. There were no other signs that it was weak, it always started and primed just fine.

  7. #7

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    Sweet this was the information I was looking for. I'm happy I won't have to do soldering like I had read. Did you use your old fuel pump filter or the walbro one?
    93 GC8A 5spd Graphite Gray Pearl! (SOLD)
    04 SG5 Manual Forester XT
    97 JZX100 5spd Toyota Chaser Tourer V!

  8. #8

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    I used my new one because the old one seemed to be done for. It had some black spots at the bottom!

    I do agree with those who say the OEM stock filter is better though, but I don't think the Walbro one will cause any harm.

  9. #9

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    I thought I'd mention that you technically don't have to remove the backseats for this job, the access is in the back right of the trunk, but it would be difficult to sit/reach into the trunk so that's why people recommend removing the back seats.

    The biggest problem I had with this job was properly securing the seal at the bottom of the pump (the black piece from the kit-not the hose). Be sure it's seated and won't easily popoff or you'll have leaks and other problems nad have to redo the job.

    Another thing is that there's no need to cut the suppressor or "piss it off" (sorry I got a laugh out of some tutorial that used that term). It just unclips and is undone with two screws I believe and comes right out. It's not needed or possible to connect to the Walbro.

  10. #10

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    I thought I'd add again that another huge difference is that I can hold the RPMs when shifting. Before the RPMs would keep dropping because the car wasn't getting gas on-time, with this new fuel pump I can stop the RPMs from dropping too much.

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