Transmission Oil/Filter Information - Aristo JZS147 3.0V

[jdmvip]

AFAIK the automatic transmission in cars like 1JZ and 2JZ actually has some kind of filter. Is this true? Are the transmissions the same between the 1JZ and 2JZ series when it comes to the automatics?

Does anyone have the part# of the Toyota transmission filter that I would need. Is it a domestic Toyota part?

I thought I read that changing the oil is difficult unless you remove the filter, most of the oil won't drain out.

I'm also guessing that the best oil is the OEM Automatic Toyota transmission oil?

How many litres does the transmission take?

Thanks guys

[jdmvip]

So basically all the 1JZ and 2JZ cars from the 90's used this transmission.
The good news is that it shouldn't be hard to find the transmission filter from the Lexus dealership if I tell them I have a Lexus GS/SC/LS series from the 90's.

Here's what I found on Wikipedia:

A341E

Applications:

• 1990-2000 Toyota Chaser/Mark II/Cresta 2.5 GT/Tourer V (1JZ-GTE)
• 1991-1997 Toyota Soarer 4.0L V8
• 1993-1995 Lexus GS 300 3.0L
• 1992-1999 Lexus SC 400 GT-L V8 cdn spec.
• 1990-1994 Lexus LS 400 4.0L V8
• 1990-1995 Toyota Crown Majesta 4.0L V8
• 1992-1998 Volvo 2.9L I6 (AW30-40LE)

[Griffinpwr]

yea it's a messy job dropping the tranny pan. I did it on the Soarer not long ago.

The filter's that the A306 (I think?) transmissions use are screen filters. They actually do not need to be replaced. I was thinking about tossing it as well but when I got to it, I realized it really is a screen filter. Very delicate, but I cleaned it with mineral spirits the best I could and set it back into place. Once you take that filter off though, be prepared for a flood of tranny fluid. I was wearing it by the end of the day

Can't remember how much it takes tho, but always use dexron III ATF. Some people will say do a tranny flush and put Type IV fluid in, but I'm not so sure. If this car was manufactured before that fluid was even released, why change if I could do more harm than good?

[Griffinpwr]

lol I was way off A341 trans... haha I knew it was A3 something

[jdmvip]

Our member 98aristo warns against the guide from the Lexls forums I included below. I am not sure what the best way is but I've always just done a drain and fill. My transmission was fine after trying the other way but better safe than sorry (just do the drain and fill, don't run the engine).

I just read now about the tranny pan but you beat me to it http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/trans...ransflush.html . I'm guessing that all the cars with this transmission have the pan.

I think I'll replace it anyway, I would rather play it safe. I know it's not the sump, but I read bad stories about people changing oil pumps and cleaning the screen. To the eye it looks fine, but it's not as good as a new one IMHO.

Do you think Lexus has an OEM auto transmisson fliud? I forgot that technically our cars are Lexus in Canada.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/trans...ransflush.html

How to Flush the Transmission Fluid
1990-1994 Lexus LS400

Pictures by Thuan (LOC Member 92Lex), Text by LexLS.com

Before doing anything read my disclaimer & safety info.

Notes
This tutorial will show you how to completely flush the transmission fluid without any fancy machines, it will save you $. If you want to save some more money go to a Toyota dealer to buy the ATF instead of buying it at the Lexus dealer, it's the same fluid! It is very important that you ONLY use Toyota T-IV ATF, the LS transmission is picky.
Tools Needed:

• Screwdrivers
• Sockets and socket wrenches
• Pliers
• 2-Ton jack stands
• Wheel blocks
• Torque wrench

Parts/Supplies Needed:

• Toyota Type IV ATF = 00279-000T4
• Container for old ATF
• 1-2 feet of 3/8" tubing

1) Put your car on ramps or jack up the front so you have some room to work under the car.
2) Remove the 11 10mm bolts that hold the engine under cover and set the cover aside.
3) Loosen the clamp and then remove the ATF hose from the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side. Place a 3/8" tube over the inlet and place the other end into a bucket or jar to catch the old fluid coming out.
4) Have a helper start the car. While the car is running monitor the fluid coming out into the jar. Once about 2 quarts or so comes out tell your helper to turn off the car. Now take the tranny dipstick out and use a funnel to add two quarts of new Toyota T-IV ATF (part #00279-000T4) through the transmission dipstick tube. Basically you need to put in the same amount that came out.
5) Repeat step 4 until the fluid that comes out is nice and red. Keep in mind that the total capacity is 8.7 quarts (8.3 liters). I would recommend getting a little more than capacity so you can do a complete flush. You might as well buy a case (12 quarts) so you'll have some extra for a drain and refill in the future.
6) Reconnect the ATF hose back to the radiator, put the under cover back on, and back your car off the ramps. Once off the ramps, slowly shift the shifter into each position, P to L. Then shift it back to P.
7) With the engine idling check the transmission fluid level. Add fluid up to the COOL level on the dipstick. DO NOT OVERFILL. Write down in your records the date and mileage of this service. Check the fluid level again in a day to make sure the fluid is at the correct level.
8) Properly dispose of your used fluid by bringing it to your local recycling center. DO NOT pour it down the drain or dump it in your backyard!!! Take a test drive to feel how smooth the tranny shifts!
Lexls.com Notes: Thanks for the pictures Thuan! Thuan's original tutorial is located here on the Lexus Owners Club (LOC) forum.

[jdmvip]

If this tutorial is right the Lexus and Toyota fluids are the same, just with a different branding and price.

Type IV Toyota ATF fluid should be fine, but I really need to get the Aristo manual to double check.

It's insane that the transmission takes 8.3 litres, that's a lot!

[Griffinpwr]

If this tutorial is right the Lexus and Toyota fluids are the same, just with a different branding and price.

Type IV Toyota ATF fluid should be fine, but I really need to get the Aristo manual to double check.

It's insane that the transmission takes 8.3 litres, that's a lot!

Keep in mind though that you're Aristo will likely have Toyota Dexron III ATF in it. So if you change to Toyota Type-IV ATF you should have a tranny flush done since it has different properties than the old Dexron III stuff.

A simple tranny pan drop and empty won't be sufficient to empty all the fluid. my .02 cents

[jdmvip]

I'm going to try and drain the fluid at least twice, hopefully there won't be any issues with the Dexron III. For all I know maybe it's been done at some point since the car seems to have had the timing done and R134 conversion.

How much should come out on its own?

This is the one tihng I find silly about Toyota transmissions, why can't they just make a normal type without filter so all the fluid can just drop out?

[jdmvip]

I thought I'd update this with my experience. I've read on many forums that Type IV has superceded the Type II/III fluid and is compatible (per service manuals) but have not confirmed with my own eyes. My JZS147 states Type-II on the dipstick since that was the current Toyota fluid at the time.

My experience differed from the LS400 A4341E guide, maybe I missed something but here's how it worked out for us (thanks to my brother in law civicless for helping so much). I suspect it's a difference between JDM and USDM.

1.) Front/Cover AT hose step non-existent/not needed:
We took off the front cover for no reason, there was no need to do this (we couldn't find any kind of hose like the guide above shows coming off the side of the transmission), nor did we find any kind of AT hosed to connected to the radiator (it's possible we missed it if there was one but why bother when you just need to go to the drain plug). While we're mentioning this the JDM cover has only 3 10mm bolts and the rest are screws (I think 5) that can't be unscrewed, they're more like a grommet/prong style and the screw head needs to be loosened with a flat head and pried out.

2.) Just jack up the passenger side (for RHD cars).
The drain plug is 9/16" (not sure of the metric size) and is the exact same size as the engine drain plug.
It is accessible from the driver side is in the middle of the car (maybe further towards the front seats). It basically faces straight down.
It is farther in and the only way I could do it is because my arms are somewhat long, it would have been easier if I didn't have such low-hanging sideskirts though.
*In my case the drain plug came off with almost no torque and was quickly hand loosened! (whoever serviced the transmission last was crazy/lazy!).

3.) Why keep the car running to do a flush?
We found that the first and only thing to happen when running the car while the drain plug was out is that no more fluid drains (even if it was draining, the moment you start the car it will stop draining) until you stop the engine. It may be a good way to circulate the oil and encourage more to come out so we did that a few times (run the engine and shut it off and wait for more to drain). The most effective method though was just loading up the funnel (we had a wide funnel that could hold nearly 1 liter in the head) and let the pressure force out more oil. Once you do that a thick stream of oil will go out, keep repeating this until the oil stops running. Repeat those steps until the oil runs smooth and clean.

*Remember that the total size of the pan is probably about 8.2 liters according to some sites and the guide above. Most drain pans can hold little over 5 liters. We did the above until we had about 4 litres of fluid in the pan and then we put it into containers.

4.) Was the flush successful?
Basically we put in a total of 8 litres and drained 8 out, so I'm fairly confident most of the old oil was flushed out. Also the last drain of oil we did looked very fresh and it was a clear red in the light (Toyota fluid is red).

Results
I've had a case of Type IV sitting for almost a year but decided to do this since Aristo has been shifting more roughly/sticky lately (I was worried the dirty oil will cause a failure which I've heard of before).

After the change the transmission is much more smooth, quick to respond and I feel like I have better control over the gearbox now especially at low speeds and light throttle.

[jdmvip]

I'm reporting more info in the thread I made for the writeup here: http://forums.jdmvip.com/Aristo_JZS1..._Aristo-3090-t

PS it may not be an A341E our cars have, it may be A340E (I've read different things, someone please confirm this).