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Thread: Tips for gauge installation

  1. #1

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    Default Tips for gauge installation

    Well, as promised I took a bunch of pictures while doing my gauge installation and would like to offer up tips. I understand that this will not cover everything so if you have any questions feel free to ask, if I have missed things, feel free to add it.

    So I guess this is more specifically for mechanical gauges with running the tubing. I have also installed an o2 wideband.

    For my boost gauge, I ran the tubing through a T on pretty much any line as they will all be the same pressure, I chose this one for no other reason then that I chose it.



    I used tiny tie wraps for everything because I didn't want to have any leaks and it isn't going to hurt anything.

    Here is the route that the gauge tubing goes to the cabin.







    At this point I would like to move to the oil pressure gauge. For this I ordered a galley plug adaptor and re locator kit from fastwrx

    Here is the galley plug





    Tight fit, had to customize my wrench lol









    And bingo bango bongo almost ready to go into the cab,

    Now for the o2 wideband

    The recommended spot as I hear is the one 6" from the turbo



    Then it goes with the rest into the cab, I used the hole the speedo cable goes into.

    I pulled it out, it has a few ribs and I cut out the first rib in order to accommodate the extra things going through the holes.


  2. #2

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    This is where it comes into the cab through that hole,



    I then ran the tubing to their required gauges in that insulation stuff that you can see in the pictures. For the boost gauge it just went straight out like this.





    For the pillar pod,

    I firstly lined up the pillar pod and marked in pencil where I wanted it to sit.

    I then removed the pillar, you have to take it right out, pretty straight forward looking at it you should be able to tell how it comes out. While doing this I also unplugged my door chime permanently.

    When I had it out of the car, I drilled the holes for the plastic rivets to fasten the pillar and I made a larger hole in order to pass the wires and tubing through then under the dash.

    Nice clean look after it is done this way,



    Now comes the power,

    In order to show which wires are coming from where, I printed tags for each of the wires.

    I used power from the deck.



    I used the red wire for the 12v for my o2 wideband, this will come on when I turn on the key,

    For the lighting for my boost and oil pressure I used the illumination wire which is orange so the lights come on with my instrument cluster lights

    I used and "i let" and grounded the screws here and ran the wires out of where you can see in this picture.



    I then ran wires from my gauges to splice, as seen here





    quick tie wraps and all the wiring under the dash is cleaned up

    still a rats nest though





    and thats it. Finished product:



    Last edited by tperkins; 09-18-2011 at 09:25 PM.

  3. #3

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    I just did my boost gauge today. Don't have a pod yet though. You went with Autometer right? Did you have any trouble getting your vacuum lines onto either end of the T fitting? I could NOT get them on far at all, and started bending the flimsy plastic T... Any tips to getting them on all the way? I tried to thin out the inside of the hose with a knife, but still no luck.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by RawRock View Post
    I just did my boost gauge today. Don't have a pod yet though. You went with Autometer right? Did you have any trouble getting your vacuum lines onto either end of the T fitting? I could NOT get them on far at all, and started bending the flimsy plastic T... Any tips to getting them on all the way? I tried to thin out the inside of the hose with a knife, but still no luck.
    Thanks for reminding me, the "T" that autometer gives is way to big and I snapped it in half trying to put it in. after a couple days of searching for a metal "T" (nobody said they could get one that was off set like the one they send, I settled for some smaller plastic ones from a local autoparts store.

  5. #5

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    Hmmm. I wish I lived closer to an autoparts store. I can't do my Oil pressure yet, need to buy the re-locator kit, but I'm out of money! Also need a pod. I drove the car after installing my gauge, and it read fine, I'm just worried because I could only get the hose on past the first "barb" on the T.

  6. #6

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    The "T" kit that I bought came with two and it was like 2.50? I could send you one in the mail if you cant find one. I was worried that I could only get it past the first barb as well. You could probably get away with just getting this

    http://www.fastwrx.com/oilgalleryplug.html

    little cheaper!

    This is what I got for the record:

    http://www.fastwrx.com/reoilprsekit.html

  7. #7

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    Yeah I've been scouring fastwrx and planned on getting the relocater, because of the lack of usable space in both plug locations.

    I live near a small town, only a fountain tire. But maybe the hardware store would have something...?

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by RawRock View Post
    Yeah I've been scouring fastwrx and planned on getting the relocater, because of the lack of usable space in both plug locations.

    I live near a small town, only a fountain tire. But maybe the hardware store would have something...?
    Its very possible! let me know if you cant find one I will try and help you out, hardware store might have one or be able to get it though, good luck!

  9. #9

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    I'll check it out tomorrow perhaps. I was thinking of making myself a custom pod to hold my gauges in the meantime...

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by RawRock View Post
    I'll check it out tomorrow perhaps. I was thinking of making myself a custom pod to hold my gauges in the meantime...
    my dual gauge cost 39$ and my cup cost $22 just so people know who are looking at this. You could definitely do that in the mean time, what gauge series did you go with?

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