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Thread: 93 WRX won't start when cold outside

  1. #21

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    Speed Stick could this be related to your turbo replacement? I recall you had some kind of weird issue with a sensor after you replaced your turbo awhile ago?

    You should also hook up the black cables together and green cables and hold the gas halfway and then turn your car to the on position for diagnostics (see if you get any codes) - my method for diagnostics may be wrong because I haven't done it for a long time.

    I believe albertfalgui had a similar issue to you and it turned out to be his CAM sensor, his mechanic solved it with some dielectric grease along the wiring.

    I agree based on what you said it sounds like fuel and power are not an issue for you. If you want to be absolutely sure you could remove the plugs and crank and you'll see fuel spray out of the cylinders.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by jdmvip View Post
    Speed Stick could this be related to your turbo replacement? I recall you had some kind of weird issue with a sensor after you replaced your turbo awhile ago?
    Ya the original issue started around that time for it having extended crank but it started fine last winter.

    You should also hook up the black cables together and green cables and hold the gas halfway and then turn your car to the on position for diagnostics (see if you get any codes) - my method for diagnostics may be wrong because I haven't done it for a long time.
    No codes and this is something i checked first.


    I believe albertfalgui had a similar issue to you and it turned out to be his CAM sensor, his mechanic solved it with some dielectric grease along the wiring.
    I don't really get what you mean by that.

    I agree based on what you said it sounds like fuel and power are not an issue for you. If you want to be absolutely sure you could remove the plugs and crank and you'll see fuel spray out of the cylinders.
    Well I wouldn't go that far as its possibly gonna be one of those.

    Quote Originally Posted by jdmpeg View Post
    Jdm wrx's and sti's should be fine in the cold winters
    I know that which is the reason I made this thread...

    Its a fucking -7 and the cocksucker won't start. I'm loosing my fucking mind on this pos. Ran two tanks through with a methyl hydrate mixture so I don't know how that wouldn't have helped the issue somewhat if it was moisture in the fuel.

    I think I'm just gonna say fuck it and order a couple sensors in. Cam and crank. Things aren't cheap.
    Last edited by Speed Stick; 02-05-2013 at 04:02 PM.
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  3. #23

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    Got the replacement crank and cam sensors as well as a temperature sensor in the mail yesterday. Changed out the Crank sensor this evening. Wow what a joke that was.... Broke the sensor off flush with the block so had to spend a couple hours picking it out with a screw driver until I could use pliers to remove it. Then routing the cable under the intake manifold and plugging it back in underneath the intercooler wasn't fun either.

    Here is a picture of the replacement sensor and what mine looked like when I finally removed it from the engine block.



    First start up right after had the typical three seconds of extended crank to start. Will see what happens with it in the next day or so. Doesn't look like it gonna get cold enough outside anytime soon for me to see if the sensor made a difference.

    I plan on changing out the cam sensor when I get my new speedo cable in as well as the little coolant sensor I got as well. This isn't the same one I replaced before which was located kinda below/beside the turbo. This one apparently goes on the crossover pipe. Its smaller and has a single connection on the top of it.
    93 GC8A 5spd Graphite Gray Pearl! (SOLD)
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  4. #24

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    Not sure how you managed to break that sensor, there is just one bolt then they slide out...I just took both cam and crank sensors out and cleaned them last weekend. Was a breeze, took all of a few minutes.

    In any case, I'm pretty sure cam/crank sensors are an inductive type, meaning there is just a coil of wire in the base of the sensor that changes magnetic field when a ferrous metal is passed in front of it. There's no moving parts, so these generally don't fail, and if they do you should have a CEL.

    Best method to test a crank/cam sensor is with an oscilloscope, but you should be able to determine if it's still working by connecting a multimeter to it and waving some magnetic metal in front of it. You should see the voltmeter jump around a bit as the metal is passed in front. Do this quickly to simulate gear teeth passing in front of it and you should measure pulses.
    I will eat your brains and gain your knowledge.

  5. #25

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    Have you checked evap purge solenoid?
    I will eat your brains and gain your knowledge.

  6. #26

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    Broke it because it was seized inside the engine... not like I just tried to rip it off sideways.

    Ya that's basically all there was inside the sensor was little magnets and copper wire wound up.

    No clue what or where the evap purge solenoid is. Fill me in.
    93 GC8A 5spd Graphite Gray Pearl! (SOLD)
    04 SG5 Manual Forester XT
    97 JZX100 5spd Toyota Chaser Tourer V!

  7. #27

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    no offense but this all seems kind of crazy. if you're not having any luck throwing parts at it, then take it to someone who can diagnose it properly. something is missing in the equation, either a sensor is having a temperature contraction issue resulting in an absent signal or you have a component that is not functioning properly. a qualified mechanic could save you a lot frustration. yes it will cost you, but what's the sense in being continually frustrated over something you can't solve yourself!? you're spending money anyway.
    p.s. the evap purge solenoid is NOT going to prevent your car from starting. you could delete the whole evap system and your car (in particular - newer cars are more sensitive, but at worst you would get a check engine light) would not give a flying f**k.
    forums are a poor diagnostic tool...people will try and help to the best of their knowledge, but in many cases it ends up sending you in the wrong direction. i really do feel for you, and i hope you get this solved so you can enjoy your car as it should be...

  8. #28

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    I didn't read the whole thread but I can try and offer some advice. Extended cranking to start means one of 3 things,
    Your not building compression
    Improper fuel/air mixture
    Weak spark

    Something I've always had problems with on Japanese vehicles it the maf or map sensor as well as the idle air controller. You may also want the check your throttle position sensor, it needs to read a certain amount to properly adjust fuel for cold starts. The o2 sensor could also be failing. Is your fuel filter recently replaced? How is your fuel pump? Could yo have possibly gotten bad gas.
    There is a myriad of things that could cause hard starting. I'm not totally against throwing parts at it because when you do fix the problem you will know the rest Of your sensors will be good. But just make sure you know what to look for. Good luck.
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  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by icrashlots View Post
    no offense but this all seems kind of crazy. if you're not having any luck throwing parts at it, then take it to someone who can diagnose it properly. something is missing in the equation, either a sensor is having a temperature contraction issue resulting in an absent signal or you have a component that is not functioning properly. a qualified mechanic could save you a lot frustration. yes it will cost you, but what's the sense in being continually frustrated over something you can't solve yourself!? you're spending money anyway.
    The only real parts I've thrown at it was the crank sensor so far. Other then that just some methyl hydrate. I got the crank sensor from a friend so I haven't really thrown any money into the issue I've had with the car not starting when its -10 or colder.

    And as far as bringing it to a mechanic, its kinda tough when the issue only happens when its cold enough outside for it not to start. So basically I'd have to get the car towed to a shop when its not starting because of the weather then tell them to diagnose the vehicle while its outside because if they bring it into the shop its gonna start after like a half hour from sitting inside where its warm.

    And for the extended crank issue I've had for a while that is something I could for sure have looked at by a shop but it comes down to finding a reputable shop in the Halifax area. It would probably be cheaper for me to just remove my engine and drop a new used one in by the time the shop or shops figure out what the problem could be....

    Quote Originally Posted by AWD-Driven View Post
    I didn't read the whole thread but I can try and offer some advice. Extended cranking to start means one of 3 things,
    Your not building compression
    Improper fuel/air mixture
    Weak spark

    Something I've always had problems with on Japanese vehicles it the maf or map sensor as well as the idle air controller. You may also want the check your throttle position sensor, it needs to read a certain amount to properly adjust fuel for cold starts. The o2 sensor could also be failing. Is your fuel filter recently replaced? How is your fuel pump? Could yo have possibly gotten bad gas.
    There is a myriad of things that could cause hard starting. I'm not totally against throwing parts at it because when you do fix the problem you will know the rest Of your sensors will be good. But just make sure you know what to look for. Good luck.
    Well that's the issue, there is just so many variables its crazy. Fuel filter has been replaced, pretty sure its not bad fuel because I ran a bunch of tanks through the system from different stations. Even made sure to add the methyl hydrate to each tank to ensure that the moisture gets removed. My fuel pump is a walbro.

    When I pull my Toyota Chaser out of storage I'm gonna have my WRX just parked outside my building where I am going to be able to work on it. So I'll do a bunch of different things to it when its parked for the summer where I can remove parts and not worry about needing my vehicle. Just at this point its my only vehicle so I can't just start pulling things apart or sending injectors away ect... But I do plan on doing a compression test to the engine as I haven't done one to it since I got it which was almost 80k ago.
    Last edited by Speed Stick; 03-02-2013 at 08:25 AM.
    93 GC8A 5spd Graphite Gray Pearl! (SOLD)
    04 SG5 Manual Forester XT
    97 JZX100 5spd Toyota Chaser Tourer V!

  10. #30

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    that's fair, you have a good point in that a shop may have no better luck diagnosing it, but if they're worth their door rate they'll have the equipment and know how to pin it down...but it's true, there sure are a lot of shops that don't...
    again, good luck, hope you get her figured out ^ ^

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