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Thread: DIY: change lower ball joint on JZX105

  1. #1

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    Default DIY: change lower ball joint on JZX105

    I went to the wheel alignment service and guys from the shop told me that I need to replace my lower ball joints. When I came home I checked them myself and left side had some play (definitely needs to be replaced and on the right side I didn't notice any looseness). It is good practice to change them in pairs anyway so I've got parts from Japan. Lower ball joints are different on 4WD and 2WD so parts numbers fro ball joints below for 4WD:
    • 43340-39396 Lower ball joint (1 * 4080 yen)
    • 43330-39506 Lower ball joint (1 * 4080 yen)
    • 90171-12002 Tie end rod nut (2 * 100yen)

    Including shipping it was around $115

    To replace ball joint it is only 4 bolts/nuts to remove but main problem is to separate tie end rod from ball joint and ball joint from the lower arm. Shop quoted me around $700 to replace them including cost of ball joints but I didn't believe them that they have JZX105 ball joints in stock here in Calgary

    1. Lift one side of the vehicle
    2. Remove the wheel
    3. Loose nut on the ball joint itself and 2 bolts which connects ball joint to control arm. It is better to loose these bolts before you disconnect tie end rod because after that whole assembly will rotate freely and it is hard to hold it in place.
    4. Remove tie end rod nut


    5. Now is hard part: remove tie end rod. Apply some force down by hand or pry bar to the tie rod and use hammer to hit ball joint in the spot where tie end rod goes through ball joint. Shock wave should separate them but it could take several hits. I was able to separate left side this way but right side was really stuck. So I bought special tool at Princess Auto Tie End Rod Removal Tool and it was really easy to separate tie end rod using this tool.


    6. Now it is time to separate ball joint. There is special tool do this but I used old good hammer and it was easy. The trick is to apply some pressure to the ball joint and hit lower control arm by hammer. I used jack to apply this force. At this time don't remove ball joint nut and 2 bolts, just loose them about 5mm. It will hold ball joint in place when it is separated. Also ball joint nut will prevent threads from damage and increase area for the jack. Separating ball joint by hammer was much easier than tie end rod.


    7. When ball joint separated remove it and put new one instead.


    8. I also put some additional grease into tie end rod boots

    9. Assemble everything back. Here is a schema from my book with all torques etc. Hm on the schema is Nm (Newton-Meter). This schema for all models MarkII/Chaser/Cresta 2WD and 4WD.
    99 TLC Prado
    07 Honda Pilot

  2. #2

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    Great DIY Megatol, I'm guessing other similar model years from Toyota will be similar.

  3. #3

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    Did you notice clunking at low speed when hitting bumps? I think I've gotta do mine. Just need to figure out the part number. Read that the Lexus IS300 has the same front ones.
    93 GC8A 5spd Graphite Gray Pearl! (SOLD)
    04 SG5 Manual Forester XT
    97 JZX100 5spd Toyota Chaser Tourer V!

  4. #4

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    I didn't have any signs, I went to do wheel alignment and shop told me that lower ball joints should be replaced. I guess mine just had minimal play so it wasn't yet noticeable.

    After I decided check ball joints my self and one side was fine and another was worn (but I changed both).
    It is easy to diagnose: you lift front of the car and ask someone lift wheel up with the piece of lumber or something like that. In same time you just look to lower ball joints and if they are bad you will see some play.

    Sent me your frame number, I can check parts numbers.
    99 TLC Prado
    07 Honda Pilot

  5. #5

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    Ok cool. PM sent. And ya I've seen the pictures of what happened to peoples cars when theres broke.
    93 GC8A 5spd Graphite Gray Pearl! (SOLD)
    04 SG5 Manual Forester XT
    97 JZX100 5spd Toyota Chaser Tourer V!

  6. #6

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    Just did both my front lower ball joints. Left side took two hours, the right side only took twenty minutes off and back on. I guess I screwed around a bunch on the first one figuring out how to hit it correctly. It helps a lot to have someone hold the steering wheel when separating the tie rod and ball joint.

    Also I only used a small sledge hammer, you really have to hit it a lot harder then you think to break it loose.

    Those torque specs are awesome to have in the writeup. Really helpful writeup.
    93 GC8A 5spd Graphite Gray Pearl! (SOLD)
    04 SG5 Manual Forester XT
    97 JZX100 5spd Toyota Chaser Tourer V!

  7. #7

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    Yes, these Russian JDM repair manuals are very useful. Especially for me
    99 TLC Prado
    07 Honda Pilot

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Megatol View Post
    Yes, these Russian JDM repair manuals are very useful. Especially for me
    And everyone you help with part numbers haha.
    93 GC8A 5spd Graphite Gray Pearl! (SOLD)
    04 SG5 Manual Forester XT
    97 JZX100 5spd Toyota Chaser Tourer V!

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