Augustine's Evo V

[Agency]

I like this one -> "Thanks in advance for the advance!"

I just finished putting a Silver Evo V on the road today, it needed the same components replaced... sorry to hear about the rust

DRLs - Easy Job - too bad its not easy to install them to accessory instead of the "on" position.

I had a bloody hard time finding the tie rods, nothing domestic fits (I know this because I ordered pretty much every known Mitsubishi tie rod, ended up returning them), so ordering from Japan is the way to go (For Ex. Rocky Mountain Imports). Almost pulled the rods off the Evo V sitting in the showroom

*Evo V Chassis - not the same as an Eclipse... not even close*

Part Numbers:

Inner Tie Rod (Rack End) - MR455058 * I ordered these from Rocky Mountain
If I had the time I would have ordered the following - http://www.ebay.ca/itm/250770809850?...84.m1438.l2649

Steering Boots - MB350581 MB501711
Rocky Mountain carries them in stock. Pain in the a** to install.

Toe Arm Bushes - pretty sure they are the same from Evo 4 - 9.

Hope this helps...

- Agency

So the results from the vigorous Saskatchewan inspection are out and I've got some bad news. The car failed on quite a few points; some of which are bigger than others.

- Daytime running lights and corner lights, which I already knew about and will wire myself.

- There is a rust hole in the frame of the car that will require an Autobody shop and a lot of cash. This is the point that surprised me the most as the car is completely rust free except a little surface rust on the underside.

- I need new inner tie rods as they both have play.

- I need new steering bellows/boots as they are both open

- Rear suspension toe arm bushings (toe links) have play and will need to be replaced.

The mechanic was fair I would say and didn't ding me for anything stupid like having Japanese tires and headlights or an aftermarket exhaust.

I will have 30 days to get all of the required parts and get the repairs done myself. Does anyone know what parts I can use for the above listed required fail points? It would be nice if there are domestic parts tat would fit so I can get them easily.

Thanks in advance for the advance!

[rzhang]

well that was incredibly helpful

[Rygar]

well that was incredibly helpful

Always good advice from Agency.

[Speed Stick]

Where was the rust hole located? Shouldn't be a ton of cash to fix, I got a hole repaired in my wrx prior to my Nova Scotia inspection for $200 from an autobody welder. Was under the passenger seat. I think something went through mine to make a hole then it just rusted.

[augustinemonteiro]

Thanks for the advice guys, I'll place an order for parts as soon as I have confirmation from the mechanic what parts I will be needing.

Speed Stick,

I was told the hole is in the left rear structural member, not sure how that is considered under the driver's side. I'll have look underneath today to see for myself. I'm hoping I can get it repaired for close to $200 as well.

[augustinemonteiro]

Thanks for the advice, I'll grab a 51R and new terminals this weekend.
I was able to get all of the parts I needed ordered and should be able to get them installed and the safety completed in 2 weeks!

I just discovered extensive rust on the underside rear of the rear wheels that is pretty bad. It has made it into the trunk under the carpet too. Any suggestions for fixing this?

I got quoted at approx $3000 at the Autobody shop which is too expensive for me at this time

[UrbKlr]

Can you get any pictures? Rust takes a lot of material and labor to fix correctly, hence the expensive price.

[William]

3K is a reasonable quote for anything like this. Your lucky it wasn't deemed un road worthy.. I know a lot of rusty cars coming from Ontario get this happen to them in Alberta, SK, etc. and the owners cannot get them registered at all.

[augustinemonteiro]

Here are the pics of the rust it literally only exists rear of the rear wheels. The front section of the car is absolutely mint

[augustinemonteiro]

Update: I changed my spark plugs and AYC fluid to try and get rid of the light in the dash.

The spark plugs were heavily fouled and the new ones (NGK BR7ES) gave the engine new life and smoother revving.

The AYC fluid that I removed was extremely clean but I put new fluid in anyways. The light still comes on in my dash after driving the car from park so the fluid change did not help at all. I'm not sure what do do next for the AYC but it probably wont be as easy as a fluid change