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Thread: EJ20G How to Remove IACV to clean it to cure cold start stall problems and wild idle

  1. #111

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    any one had a boost leak on the top half of there iacv? i noticed a pretty fast leak when i tried my boost leak tester. i tried a little high temp silicone on the o ring and around it, we'll see if that works

  2. #112

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    This thread is quite helpful, I am having issues when starting the car for the first time in a day, seems little bit worse when its cold. Low idle, ~500rpm for a few seconds, then jumps to 1500 and warms up and drops to ~900rpm.

    I have tried to prime the fuel by starting the ignition and leaving it on for 5-10sec then switching it back to off then starting again. This seems to help somewhat, seems to hesitate less but still doesn't start correctly.

    I am planning on trying to clean the IACV, and can update if it helps with the issue. Is removing the intercooler the best way to go to get at the IACV, has anyone had success removing it without removing the intercooler?

    Are there any gaskets that may need to be replaced? I read about getting replacement gaskets but I'm pretty sure thats for newer models.

    Any help would be great.
    96' VerII Sti

  3. #113

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    thank you for this post!
    1994 Subaru WRX STi Ver.1 Mar56/100

    Pawel Ingemar Tworek

  4. #114

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    I'm pretty sure I removed my IACV without removing the intercooler. I just undid the bolts and pushed it towards the windshield to give myself some more space.

    One thing I noticed now that I've read this thread is that I haven't had this issue since I've been out on the island. I used to get it often when I was in Alberta.
    93 GC8A 5spd Graphite Gray Pearl! (SOLD)
    04 SG5 Manual Forester XT
    97 JZX100 5spd Toyota Chaser Tourer V!

  5. #115

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    Hi Rubaru, you might have missed the Update in the OP here but I no longer believe the IACV is causing our cold start issues. It is more likely CAM sensor or something else.

  6. #116

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    Hey SPEED STICK!

    Did you fully remove the IACV? It should be ok to get the bolts off, then the two coolant hoses, but the big hose on top, guessing just air, how does that come apart? I'd like to be able to remove the whole valve and clean it.

    Thanks for the help

  7. #117

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    Anyone dealt with these cars with no IACV at all? I'm considering getting rid of it permanently to make room for a bigger TMIC.

  8. #118

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    subie, you can do that easily by just undoing the main intercooler boots and gently shoving it up to the right and then you'll have enough space to remove the IACV. If you're having cold start issue though, this won't fix it, a brand new factory IACV did not fix anything for me. The big air hose just slides off but to get each hose off,you'll probably need a small flathead screwdriver.

    MatchstiK, I've heard of this IIRC but personally I don't know if it's a good idea. I've seen people stick in later model TMIC's with the IACV still there but personally I'm having trouble fitting the STi EJ20G silver TMIC in place of my black slanty (not because of the IACV though).

  9. #119

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    Ya I figure I'm a decent candidate for going without the IACV just because it's not winter driven, also not my daily. I'll probably have to keep my foot on the throttle at idle the whole time while it warms up... Might be worthwhile.

  10. #120

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    I'm curious to know how it works out for you if you do it, but from what I recall yes idle will of course be an issue once you remove the IACV

    I'm not sure if the hassle will be worth whatever small benefit you could have though?

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