JZX100 Daytime Running Lights DIY
Well I had to rig up some daytime running lights in my 1997 Toyota Chaser for inspection. I searched the web like crazy trying to find a writeup but no luck. Decided to figure it out myself and make a writeup. I tried a few different options but one ultimately worked best.
I'll start with list of items required.
1. ATM Fuse Tap which I purchased at Princess Auto for $10 http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/F...-Tap/8311003.p
2. Some 15amp fuses, I bought a 5 pack from princess auto for $4. http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/F...uses/8131518.p
3. Short piece of electrical wire. I just used some speaker wire I had which was 14 Guage.
4. Needle nose pliers, I say this because I found it difficult to pull out the cigarette lighter fuse with the fuse puller that is provided inside the engine bay fuse box.
5. Wire strippers, I already one.
6. Test light is also a good idea.
Here is the JZX100 fuse box diagrams and legend which I got off JZX100.com.
Engine bay compartment fuse box
1. Interior light, clock-15A-DOME
2. Head lamp (left) High-15A-HEAD (RH)
3. Door Locks-20A-DOORSUB
4. Radio, wide-25A-RADIO NO.1 Multi-AV Station
5. Head lamp (left) and low beam-15A-HEAD (LH)
6. Horn-10A-HORN
Computer-20A-EFI 7.EFI
Computer-20A-AM2 8.EFI
09. Flasher highly-15A-HAZARD
10. Horta-7.5A-ALT SENCING Sensing
11. Headlamp (Right) High-15A-HEAD RH (HI)
12. Head Lamp (right) low-beam-15A-HEAD RH (LO)
13. Electric Fan-30A-FAN NO.2
14. Electric Fan-30A-FAN NO.1
* Tourer V, Tourer S, Tourer
Driver's footwell fuse box
1. -30A-S/ROOF Moon roof
2. Taillight, license-plate light, road light-10A-TAIL
3. Air conditioning, electric fans, rear window U-15A-HEATER Defogga
4. Door Locks-20A-DOOR
5. Light switches, light air-conditioning, lighting audio-7.5A
6. Blinker-10A-TURN
7. Front driver side power window U-20A-D FR P / W
8. EFI computer-10A-IGN
9. ABS, TRC, VSC, computer lights, cruise control-15A-ECU-IG
10. Brake light-20A-STOP
11. Starter-7.5A-STARTER
12. Meter, belt tightness abatement system, wireless door lock-15A-GAUGE
13. Front window glass containing a heat shield U-20A-FR DEF
14. Rear driver's side power window U-20A-P RR P / W
15. Wiper, washer motor-20A-WIPER
16. Fog-15A-FOG
17. Rear passenger side power window U-20A-P FR P / W
18. Audio, AV station-wide multi-10A-RADIO NO.2
19. Air conditioning, cruise control, rear fog lights, wireless door lock-10A-ECU-B
20. Rear driver's side power window U-20A-D RR P / W
21. Shift Lock, Clock, SRS airbag, Electric mirrors Remote-10A-ECU-ACC
22. Power Seat -30A-P/SEAT
23. Electrical load, idle up -7.5AI/UP
24. Cigarette lighter-15A-CIG
First I tried jumping my fog light fuse for DRL but that didn't work. The fog lights on these cars don't turn on unless your turn the headlights on so it must be connected through the headlight relay or something. Either way, there is a better method.
I also tried to connect my cigarette lighter fuse (24) directly to both headlight fuses located in the engine bay (12,5). That actually worked but would blow my cigarette lighter fuse after ten seconds. Its a hassle running the wire anyways.
Then after some thinking I tested fuse #2 of the inside fuse box which runs the little road lights, tail lights and license plate light. Realized it didn't receive power unless I turned the light stalk on the steering wheel one click. So I knew it would work.
So this is where the actual steps start.
Step 1: Take your piece of wire which really only needs to be like 3" long and strip both ends. Crimp one end into the fuse tap and then leave the other end open for now.
Step 2: Inside the car beside the gas pedal open up the tiny fuse box. Just have to pull on the little knob to get it to pop out then the cover just pops off.
Step 3: I then located the cigarette lighter fuse which is the very bottom right. #24 in the second diagram. I removed the fuse and inserted my fuse tap which I pluged two 15amp fuses into. Cigarette fuse located very bottom right of the fuse box in imagine below.
Step 4: Locate the fuse for the road lights which is #2 (10amp)on the second diagram. Stick the end of the wire in the fuse spot with the fuse pushed in on top of it. The fuse top middle in the picture with the wire running into it in picture above.
That's all, turn the car on and your lights should work! Doing it this way will make this little bulb turn on when you start the car. Your taillights and license plate light will also illuminate but that's fine.
Those are bugs all over my front bumper not chips haha.
Passed the inspection no problem. This is a great method if you don't wish to keep the DRL in afterwards and don't wanna be splicing wires or buying the $50 Hamsar DRL unit. Also, cost me under $15 in supplies and if you really wanted could just use the piece of wire to jump the fuses without the actual fuse tap. Or could have just cut the connector off the end of the fuse tap and inserted it directly into the road light fuse without the extra piece of wire as it was long enough.
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