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Thread: Colby's Evo VI

  1. #101

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    Yours does that too!!! I thought it was just my stupid wrx lol. I can't shift either if I don't warm it up in the morning.
    @cdmtyper
    2017 Civic Type R FK8 R-01546
    1996 Honda Integra XI J Series Swap ITR Clone

  2. #102

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    nope that's a standard thing in all manuals. at least the ones i've driven in sub zero temperatures.
    The hydraulic fluid in the clutch system is too viscous to move fast enough so my clutch engage point changes when its cold, and the actual shift box attached to my gear lever is also solid so it's not fun going through gears. Still doable but I'd much rather just let it warm up and have no problems. If I drive long enough it keeps getting better and better and eventually it's like shifting through warm butter lol I can't wait for the summer.
    Don't even get me started on non-hydraulic or straight mechanical clutches aha it's a nightmare in the cold.

  3. #103

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    Well then I am glad it's not just me, it is defiantly annoying.. Like you said, it does shifts better the longer you drive. I am defiantly looking forward to summer as well
    @cdmtyper
    2017 Civic Type R FK8 R-01546
    1996 Honda Integra XI J Series Swap ITR Clone

  4. #104

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    Okay so one of the mechanical things I had planned was to swap my lifters out with some revised 3mm lifters.
    These have virtually no performance effect except promoting oil circulation in the valve train part of the engine, and are apparently a damn good idea for when I end up swapping my cams out.
    The OEM lifters have an opening less than 1mm in dia. for oil to circulate, like the below picture illustrates, and is a major cause of cold start ticking.

    Hopefully these new lifters should eliminate cold start tick all together.

    I also purchased a purpose-built tool which allows me to change the lifters without removing the cams, which is nice.
    I won't be doing this until I get some more parts in so I can put the car down for like a few days and just have everything I planned done; all around pads and rotors, rebuild the calipers, paint the calipers, and replace the lifters.

    Last edited by EvoNorth; 01-30-2015 at 03:03 AM.

  5. #105

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    Also threw this shift knob on because I prefer the feel of a symmetrical shifter.

  6. #106

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    Thats a nice looking knob. Real carbon?
    @cdmtyper
    2017 Civic Type R FK8 R-01546
    1996 Honda Integra XI J Series Swap ITR Clone

  7. #107

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    Its an aluminum alloy with a layer of real 3k carbon fiber and a clear coat. Not solid carbon fiber. Or at least thats what the ebay add said haha who knows, all i know is it looks the part and thats good enough for me. Its also very light.

    As a side note, got my massive OT-contributed cheque today so i ordered a few more goodies off my wish list; AEM Wideband, AEM 150 PSI Oil pressure, AEM 35 PSI Boost. And two pods to hold them all. The gauge cluster twin side pods looked cool so I had to get it lol.


  8. #108

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    Hey I just did my lifters on my VI a week ago! But my lifters I pulled out definitely had a much larger oil hole than the picture above, not sure if that's correct. Your tool will help big time too, I did it without the tool but wish I would have bought one. The lifters will tick like crazy once you start back up so I'd recommend running the engine like they say in this faq http://www.lancerregister.com/faq_f01.php

    If you have any questions about the process let me know!!!
    1990 Celica All Trac- Sold
    1999 Mitsubishi Evolution VI GSR

    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, oversteer with the back. Horsepower is how fast you hit it and torque is how far you take the wall"

    Good drivers have dead flies on the side windows. (Walter Röhrl)

  9. #109

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    Those gauges will look great! I have AEM boost in mine and I really like it.
    @cdmtyper
    2017 Civic Type R FK8 R-01546
    1996 Honda Integra XI J Series Swap ITR Clone

  10. #110

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ironchief View Post
    Hey I just did my lifters on my VI a week ago! But my lifters I pulled out definitely had a much larger oil hole than the picture above, not sure if that's correct. Your tool will help big time too, I did it without the tool but wish I would have bought one. The lifters will tick like crazy once you start back up so I'd recommend running the engine like they say in this faq http://www.lancerregister.com/faq_f01.php

    If you have any questions about the process let me know!!!
    You put in the 3mm ones? Yeah it seemed like a tiny hole but apparently theres still a difference between OEM and the revised lifters. Lots of threads on MLR about it.
    You bled your lifters and installed them fully depressed right? They were shipped to me with obvious oil in them (lots of pressure and the little bags were covered in oil, makes sense.) I figured I'd just bleed them all dry, install them and let the oil pressure fill them back up.

    I read a lot of threads on the installation topic on MLR. They were actually first brought to my attention when I was researching camming my car. 3mm's came highly recommended. I already knew what the ticking noise was lol.

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