Evo (V) Remote Tuning

[Rygar]

Hey,

I am wondering if anyone knows of anyone who will remotely tune Evos (i.e. receive maps via email and return a ROM).
So far I've found two that may do it:
Mellon Tuning and TS Comp Tuned. They are both located in the USA, but obviously with email it won't matter where they're located. Obviously here I'm only concerned with that they know what they're doing.

This is one possible solution to my Evo's issues. The other is to replace all the piping with stock size pipes, which will be significantly more expensive.


Have at er, thanks!

[EvoNorth]

I've also been looking into this for my recently purchased VI.
I wasn't able to find people that are able to send tunes by email directly to you and your car, so what you've said are the first I've seen. I'm thinking the biggest difficulty with it is they would need the current log of your car in a test run before they can send you a custom remap, which to do, you would need the EvoScan software and the tactrix cable for your OBDII port. However I could be wrong.

Also a general consensus I've found is there isn't a lot of support for professional tuning of the pre-E7 ECU's, most people in other forums saying they just upgraded to an E7 ECU in their E5's or E6's. However I was able to find a thread here which gives you access to a downloadable remap of your ECU (obviously still requires EvoScan) and is designed for the E5/E6 ECU. There is a lot of technical jargon (modifying connector pins with switches etc.) that I have yet to sort through however, and would need to do a lot more research before I felt comfortable installing it myself.

Down the road, when I'm actually considering a remap, I think I'll just be getting EvoScan, the tactrix cable, and ECUFlash and then researching the hell out of it in order to amateur-tune it myself. I read this entire thread and it's starting to make more sense now that I'm on the second time through. Basically you start small and your tune eventually builds up, rather than a professional one-time-go at it. Obviously this would mean a lot of logging, but I think it would feel pretty rewarding in the end.

Basically, I'm pretty sure you're going to at a minimum need EvoScan and the tactrix(2.0 I believe) cable no matter which path you choose.

[EvoNorth]

Also, what issues are you having that would require you to re-install stock size piping to resolve?
Assuming you mean your exhaust sytem, I don't think a tune alone would be able to eliminate any problems you may have; I've never heard of only A/M exhaust negatively affecting a cars performance.
From what I've read and seen, usually a tune is only completely warranted when approaching stage 2 modifications. If you're tuning with just an exhaust setup and an intake(bare stage 1 mods), I can only imagine it optimizing performance rather than resolving issues.

[Rygar]

I've also been looking into this for my recently purchased VI.
I wasn't able to find people that are able to send tunes by email directly to you and your car, so what you've said are the first I've seen. I'm thinking the biggest difficulty with it is they would need the current log of your car in a test run before they can send you a custom remap, which to do, you would need the EvoScan software and the tactrix cable for your OBDII port. However I could be wrong.

Also a general consensus I've found is there isn't a lot of support for professional tuning of the pre-E7 ECU's, most people in other forums saying they just upgraded to an E7 ECU in their E5's or E6's. However I was able to find a thread here which gives you access to a downloadable remap of your ECU (obviously still requires EvoScan) and is designed for the E5/E6 ECU. There is a lot of technical jargon (modifying connector pins with switches etc.) that I have yet to sort through however, and would need to do a lot more research before I felt comfortable installing it myself.

Down the road, when I'm actually considering a remap, I think I'll just be getting EvoScan, the tactrix cable, and ECUFlash and then researching the hell out of it in order to amateur-tune it myself. I read this entire thread and it's starting to make more sense now that I'm on the second time through. Basically you start small and your tune eventually builds up, rather than a professional one-time-go at it. Obviously this would mean a lot of logging, but I think it would feel pretty rewarding in the end.

Basically, I'm pretty sure you're going to at a minimum need EvoScan and the tactrix(2.0 I believe) cable no matter which path you choose.

You are correct in most points here (I have Evoscan, etc). And the tune-by-email option is likely in steps as well.

As for the issues - boost cut and stalling coming off throttle into neutral. I to test the system for boost leaks before I go tune anything (and with 3 weeks left till it's in storage it's unlikely much will get done on any front).
As for piping the car has an aftermarket exhaust sytem, intake and IC piping. Thought process on getting it tuned is to accommodate the increased air flow (assuming the computer isn't compensating).

[EvoNorth]

Yeah tuning is a logical step if you think that could be it. Stalling putting it in neutral doesn't sound like anything on the hot side of the engine, so I highly doubt exhaust is playing a factor in that.
I've read about a few of these aftermarket intakes, specifically the ones requiring an oiled filter like HKS, K&N etc., dirtying up the MAF sensor more easily, have you tried pulling that off and giving it a good spray with MAF Cleaner? A question to ask would be has it been stalling into neutral consistently or did it develop over time. If it developed I would definitely try cleaning it because that's a reason it could not be compensating; thinking you're not getting enough air so it leans out the mixture even further, causing the stall when you come off the throttle and drop the engine load to minimums. Has your car been idling noticeably different as well? That's another tell-tale dirty MAF sign.
I was going to say check your A/M blowoff valve but I think from your earlier thread you already went back to a stock one.

[EvoNorth]

Damn the further I read on your thread the more i realize you've done all the things I'm saying lol. Then again your car could still be running lean, but not with a problem on the air side, rather, it could be the fuel side..

Certainly sounds like something a lean burning engine would do, it sounds almost identical to what my friends Subaru was doing after he installed a BOV without a tune and it was running lean, but his would just dip severely in RPMs and only stall after going to neutral after a hard accel up to like 4500-5500, which he self-fixed by adjusting it to vent basically all of the pressure to atmosphere rather than recirculate.

[Rygar]

Damn the further I read on your thread the more i realize you've done all the things I'm saying lol. Then again your car could still be running lean, but not with a problem on the air side, rather, it could be the fuel side..

Certainly sounds like something a lean burning engine would do, it sounds almost identical to what my friends Subaru was doing after he installed a BOV without a tune and it was running lean, but his would just dip severely in RPMs and only stall after going to neutral after a hard accel up to like 4500-5500, which he self-fixed by adjusting it to vent basically all of the pressure to atmosphere rather than recirculate.

Yeah, same symptoms. The car had an HKS recirculating BOV and it was faulty in more ways than one (the diaphragm was worn through in two spots!). Replaced it with a stock unit and it seemed to fix a lot of the issues, and I replaced the plugs last week and still need to test that.

Boost leak test is really the next step.

[EvoNorth]

Definitely a good place to start. A new walbro 255LPH fuel pump could also be the fix, and you'd want it regardless if you plan on doing some tuning.. I've seen a couple cars that couldn't handle dropping engine load because the fuel pumps had shat the bed, even one of mine to be specific; gas tank/pump were loaded with rust due to obviously having been left sitting for a long time with a semi-empty gas tank. The sludge buildup was unbelievable, a solid inch and a half coated in the fuel sending unit,all over the pump and even in the pump filter.
Before I got the new pump for that car and cleaned the tank, the car would sputter and die at a quarter tank, sputter and die when letting off the gas to come to a stop, and even sometimes under heavy throttle no matter the tank level. After I replaced it and cleaned the tank, it ran like a champ. I would definitely suggest taking a look in your tank even if you don't plan on replacing the pump. I think you can access it through a panel under the rear seats.

[Rygar]

Hmm, worth looking into. Thanks for the advice!

[Rygar]

Wasn't the plugs!