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Thread: How to enable DRL daytime running lights in Legacy BP5 / BL5

  1. #31

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    I am listening friend how would we wire the fogs?

  2. #32

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    OK the foglight relay seems to be under the dash to the left of the fusebox and is on the bottom left I believe. I am going to test tomorrow. My goal is to find the same thing (the 0V foglamp coil trigger pin) and then I will run 7.5A ACC from the Fusebox right into the 0V trigger and cross my fingers .

  3. #33

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    Hey guys so good news! I got it working on the fogs! I will post pics later because my phone is dead. But the same idea applied here.

    1.) Remove lower dash cover (there is a 10MM bolt where the hood release is) and then a small philips plastic screw to the left and some kind of screw, rivets. On the left hand side there is an actual philips screw (metal).
    2.) The bottom left relay can be pulled out easily by hand (unlike the engine bay ones that you have to literally mangle and break to get out).
    The same method applies here. I found the 12V constant, then I assumed it's friend was the trigger. To verify this I shoved a piece of wire into that prong and put the relay back in. I verified when the fogs were on that prong was getting 12V.
    3.) Then I shoved a wire into the 7.5V ACC fuse and ran it to the location in the fog relay above.



    If the keys are in the ACC position or higher (eg. ignition on) the fogs light up and they turn off when you turn the ACC off.

    Now the only bad news for me is that I burned out my climate control wiring or something last night. The 12V ignition on that relay terminal only gets like 1V when it should be getting 12V. I checked the fuse for that relay and it is good (even replaced it to be sure). Can anyone help me fix my climate control wiring on that relay? Is there some other fuse or relay that feeds it?
    Last edited by jdmvip; 01-15-2019 at 05:17 PM. Reason: add pics

  4. #34

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    Just want to say thanks to everyone for their help! It feels good to say "we showed these Subaru relays what's what" like one of our old school member's said years ago

  5. #35

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    I wonder if it would be possible to pull out the parking light switch on the steering column and just wire it up to be on all the time? Does it work with the key out?

    My car is at inspection facility until I find time to work on it. Lol.

  6. #36

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    nice to hear you found a solution. I'll do something similar when I get some time. At the moment, installing new cv and steering boots, and diff seals is a more pressing priority. Also a tactrix openport to start playing with the tune, so car time is limited but it'll all get done before the car hits Canadian shores in August.

  7. #37

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    Well the shop that has my car won't let it pass without modifying the headlights. I've been looking for a little bit for headlights from an '06. They look like they will do but they use an H7 headlight instead of the D2S HID they use in Japan.

    Here is how I will accomplish this:

    1. New headlight assemblies from Worldpac or the internet. Thinking either Depo 320-1113L-AF2/320-1113R-AF2 or TYC 20662190/20662290. Approx $160 CAD each.
    2. Philips Osram D2S Xenon Bulbs
    3. These little adapters


    Transfer bulbs, ballast etc from JDM Assemblies to USDM assemblies. This should allow the JDM HIDs to work in the USDM H7 projectors. Not the best solution but probably the easiest.

    edit: other than the headlight assemblies (beam pattern, reflectors, no amber corners -- bulbs won't do), the car needs nothing to pass inspection so that's fantastic.... other than DRLs of course which I hope to get to this weekend.
    Last edited by gc8d4ed; 01-10-2019 at 07:44 PM. Reason: moar details

  8. #38

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    Alright an update....

    Finding those headlights online (Depo) is next to impossible.... Getting CAPA grade assemblies is close to $500 CAD from Rockauto. NSF grade is just under $400. Next I called a few wreckers -- $250 per side I was told... jeez. Then I found another shop that sold me 2005 Legacy assemblies for $100 per side.

    2005 assemblies have black bezels and 2006-2007 have chrome/silver. All have amber reflector-corners.

    I will use these assemblies with either HID out of the JDM lights or just switch to H7 as the wiring is the same for the high beam and parking/turn signals.

    I have also designed what I think will work for DRL and have attached it. Terminal 87 is the 0V side of the high amp circuit on the HL relays.
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  9. #39

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    Alright, that attached schematic above 100% works. I used an “add a circuit” on the “MIR” 7.5A mirror fuse under the dash. This mirror is the mirror in the visor - the fuse is for the light.
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    Last edited by gc8d4ed; 01-13-2019 at 07:16 PM.

  10. #40

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    Here's a breakdown of the schematic... then this post should get stickied. The image on this post is jdmvip's. The other images mentioned are in the post before this (ran out of 30 minute limit while editing).

    Relay Sockets:
    1. SET1 - this is the headlight circuit. High amps (15A fuses in-line for each left and right). These are terminals 30 and 87 in the relay (30 being the hot side and 87 being the cold side which leads to the headlight).
    2. SET2 - this is the headlight switch circuit. When this circuit is energized it induces a magentic field in the relay coil which closes the connection between terminals 30 and 87 in the relay.


    Identifying the relay pins:
    With the relays pulled out of the sockets, use a multimeter on Voltage DC. Then ground the negative test probe to the battery or chassis. Insert the positive into the socket holes one by one. There are 2 smaller pins (SET2 as pictured) and 2 larger pins. The hot or 12V+ pin on SET1 is terminal 30. The 0V pin on SET1 is terminal 87. The 12V+ pin on SET2 is terminal 86. The 0V pin on SET2 is terminal 85. By holding the relay over the socket, you will be able to tell which pins on the relay are which. Note that the pins are opposite to the sockets -- hold the relay pins down over the socket to correctly identify the pins.

    Relay pins:
    1. Terminal 85 on each relay will connect to ground.
    2. Terminal 86 on each relay will connect to the ACC 12V from the under-dash Fuse Box. I used the MIR Fuse as it's only 7.5A and we don't expect to draw much current to energize the relay.
    3. Terminal 30 will connect to the hot side of SET1 (see image) on the relay socket in the fuse panel.
    4. Terminal 87 will connect to the cold side of SET1 on the socket in the fuse panel.


    As per the schematic, SET2 will be jumpered as the OEM setup is to have this circuit connected. Without DRL, this circuit triggers the headlights when the switch on the steering column is activated.

    SET1 connects to the relays as normal -- BE SURE TO connect each connector from the pin on the relay to the socket in the location it would connect if the relay was going into the socket.

    The 12V mirror fuse is tapped with an add-a-circuit fuse holder. I used 7.5A fuse for the relays and the original 7.5A fuse for the visor mirror light. I ran this power source into the engine compartment and before connecting it to the hot side of the relay (terminal 86), I split the line so that the relays are connected in parallel. Running them in parallel will allow one to function if the other is dead meaning you could run with a single headlight in the case of a relay dying. If you run these in series, then one dead relay will result in 2 non-functioning headlights. That is unless the fuse in the dash is blown, then you'd have no headlights either way!

    I used female spade connectors to connect to the relay pins and I electrical taped the connector that slid onto terminal 86. This way there shouldn't be any accidental stream crossing (see Ghostbusters). I wrapped the relays and connections in tape and placed them into the void inside the fuse box in the engine compartment.
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    Last edited by gc8d4ed; 01-13-2019 at 08:01 PM.

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